Diamond Alternatives

So you’ve decided to get married. Congratulations! It can be hard to find the perfect ring, and when you do, your decisions aren’t over. When it comes to the gemstones you put in it, there are so many options that it can sometimes be overwhelming. We consulted our Store Director and expert designer, Darrell, to get the facts. When it comes to engagement rings, he knows it all! And he is GIA certified in Diamond and Diamond Grading. We’ll walk you through all the center stone options if you want the classic look of a diamond, or diamond alternatives. Keep reading to discover which option is best for you!

In this post, we’ll reference two aspects of diamonds and diamond alternatives: hardness and refractive index. These tools show two aspects of each stone: how hard and durable it is, and also the “brilliance,” which is essentially how sparkly the stone is. We’ll also show graphs to give you a visual representation of where each diamond or diamond alternative falls on these charts.

Natural Diamond

Natural diamonds continue to be the first choice of most brides-to-be. You learned about them in middle school geology class and have been dreaming about one being on your finger since you were a little girl. They are created with intense heat and pressure, deep under Earth’s surface. This process is a long one, taking between 1 and 3.3 billion years. That’s right, billion! This is precisely the reason diamonds are so pricey. They’re unique, rare, and take a really long time to form. They score a perfect 10 on the Mohs hardness scale and are highly refractive (2.417-2.419). While we won’t go into all the details of natural diamonds, you can learn about them here. Perhaps a natural diamond is perfect for you, but maybe you want to explore diamond simulate center stones. You’ve come to the right place. Here are the most common diamond alternative stones. Perhaps one may be the perfect center stone choice for you.

Lab Grown Diamond

The first option for getting the look of a diamond is well, a diamond! When it comes to this beautiful gem, there are two options: lab grown, or natural. There is a common misconception that lab grown diamonds are a diamond simulant. Lab diamonds are just that: diamonds. The only difference is that instead of being created naturally in the earth and mined over a billion years later, it’s made in a laboratory under controlled conditions.

Lab grown diamonds are recognized in the industry as diamonds, and pass all the same tests as a natural diamond. They have the same chemical composition, and the same hardness (10), and the same refractive index (2.417-2.419).

To help understand the difference between lab grown diamonds and natural diamonds, we’ll use ice as an analogy. If you walked outside on a cold winter’s day and picked an icicle off your rain gutter, then walked inside and got an ice cube from your freezer, you’d have two types of ice. They were formed differently (one by nature and one by your freezer) but they are both ice. Same chemical composition, but different ways of being created. Lab grown diamonds and natural diamonds are the same way.

Another difference between lab grown diamonds and natural diamonds is price. Lab grown diamonds are generally less expensive, because they don’t have the trait of being billions of years old, like natural diamonds do.

If you’re considering a diamond for your engagement ring, lab grown diamonds are a great option. You have all the benefits of a natural diamond (hardness, brilliance, beauty), but generally 30% less cost.

Moissanite

In the late 1800’s, a French chemist name Henry Moisson was studying rock samples from a crater in Arizona. He found what he thought were diamonds from space, but while examining them, he realized they were chemically different than diamonds.

After years of study and practice, a new diamond alternative, named after the famous chemist, became know to the industry as moissanite. However, it wasn’t until recent years that moissanite became popular in engagement rings. In late 2015, colorless moissanite was finally achieved. Until this point, moissanite always had a yellow or brown tint to it, making it look noticeably different from a diamond.

Today, moissanite is arguably the best diamond alternative or diamond simulant. It is well balanced between hardness and brilliance. Scoring a 9.25 on the Mohs hardness scale, moissanite is durable enough for everyday wear. The refractive index of moissanite is 2.65-2.69 which is actually higher than diamond. Moissanite is doubly refractive, which means that for every ray of light that goes into the stone, two rays are refracted, as shown in this graphic.

Because of double refraction, moissanite also has a fiery, rainbow looking quality. Depending on the light its in, you can see the colors of the rainbow in the stone. Many fall in love with the characteristic of the beautiful colors, but some prefer the white light of a diamond.

Moissanite is a beautiful stone, and a great option if you want the look of a diamond and about the 1/10 of the price.

Cubic Zirconia

Next up is cubic zirconia, otherwise known as CZ. CZ’s look beautiful, which is why they’re commonly used for model rings in jewelry stores, and they have a refractive index of 2.15-2.18, making them sparkly and beautiful. So why doesn’t everyone put a CZ in their engagement ring? While they are beautiful, they’re not durable. Coming in at an 8 on the Mohs hardness scale, CZ is prone to cracks and scratches. After a few years of wearing this stone on your finger every day, you’ll notice scratches, cloudiness in the stone, and possibly even chips.

White Sapphire

The last diamond simulant we will cover is white sapphire. This is much less common than cubic zirconia or any other diamond simulant, but still an option for some brides. Unlike CZ, white sapphire is a 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, and therefore more durable. It isn’t a perfect 10 so it’s still vulnerable to damage, but it’s a lot harder to damage a sapphire than a CZ.

If it’s so durable, why don’t we see more white sapphires in wedding rings? The brilliance. At a 1.77 on the refractive index, white sapphire doesn’t sparkle like natural diamonds, moissanite, or CZ’s. When a ray of light goes into a white sapphire, it leaks out the bottom instead of bouncing back and reflecting light, like this graphic shows.

Diamond vs. Diamond Alternatives

If cubic zirconia is beautiful but breakable, and white sapphire is durable but dull, then we start to understand why these aren’t typically recommended for a ring you plan to wear every day of your life to represent your love story.

With several options to choose from when it comes to your center stone: cubic zirconia, white sapphire, moissanite, lab diamond, or natural diamond, here’s a round up to make the comparison easy to see. These charts compare the refractive index and hardness scale of diamonds and diamond alternatives.

Now that you know more, which center stone will you choose for your dream ring?  And what is your next step?  Whether you’re local in Utah or live far away, FORGE can help you create and customize your perfect engagement ring. Click here to make appointment. We can’t wait to see what you create!